Medieval Winter Clothing

Paris Haute Couture: Valentino autumn/winter 2011

These were clothes fit for a Princess: Step forward, the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Charlene of Monaco, two women who could slip into Valentino couture and find they fit as snugly as Cinderella's slipper.

Two years after they took over the reigns at Valentino from the perma-tanned legend, Valentino Garavani, designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picciolo have been quietly forging their own stamp on the house style. At yesterday's show the cord between old and new was finally cut. Transformation 100 per cent complete.

The duo's collection of 41 utterly flawless gowns shown in a Royal setting, the 18th century former home of the Baron Rothschild, in grounds that belonged to the estate of Louis XV1, had a Medieval feel to them.

Slim-fitting and crafted from gorgeous fabrics like sumptuous devoré panné velvets, gold thread brocades and Chantilly lace, they came in pale colours of gold, nudes, creams and eau de nil that accentuated the feel of lightness and radiance of youth.

A fleet of tall, super-thin ethereal-looking models with hair in braids piled Heidi style on their heads, wove their way through wood panelled rooms where guests sat, in gowns that appeared as light as feathers.

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picciolo succeeded in capturing both the essence of haute couture, with these ultra-luxurious fabrics executed with faultless cut, and yet offered a new take on a traditional theme.

They also included day to evening pieces like white capes with elaborate Argyle patterns cut into the fabric, which could slip into the wardrobes of today's style conscious on-the-go Princesses.

Fabric plait belts mirrored the models' hairstyles and back detailing on gowns - perfect for making entrances and exits - were also a recurrent theme.

"We were inspired by the Russian aristocratic émigrés who came to Paris after the Revolution," explained Chiuri, post-show, showing story boards of old black and white photos of long necked beauties in paired down museum-like clothes.

"They had nothing but their grace but used this as a weapon to add to their regality. We have used simple, cleanness of lines and let fabric speak. This way it is more modern.

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